In this article, we take a closer look at the timeless beauty of Chanel Haute Joaillerie, tracing its journey from Gabrielle Chanel’s original 1932 collection to the stunning new designs we see today.
Known for its blend of elegance, creativity, and refined luxury, Chanel’s fine jewelry continues to reflect Coco Chanel’s bold vision and love for the extraordinary.
This story brings together beautiful photography—both new and archival—to showcase Chanel’s signature styles and symbols.
Rather than adhering to a timeline, the focus here is on design and artistic expression, demonstrating how Chanel jewellery remains modern and meaningful across generations. Whether it’s delicate feathers, stars, comets, or camellias, each piece tells a part of Chanel’s unique legacy, celebrating craftsmanship and timeless beauty in every jewel.
Chanel’s Signature Jewelry Symbols
Chanel’s high jewelry collections feature six iconic designs: Lion, No.5, Comet, Ribbon, Feather (Plume de Chanel), and Camellia.
These symbols, inspired by Gabrielle Chanel herself, are more than just pretty shapes—they tell a story of timeless beauty and style. Each piece is created with care and creativity, using luxurious materials to keep the Chanel spirit alive.
Feather-Inspired Jewelry Since 1932
Chanel’s love for feathers started in 1932 when Coco Chanel designed a white gold and diamond feather brooch.
It was flexible and soft-looking, made to move like a real feather and fit naturally on the body. This natural design with curves (no sharp lines) became a signature style.
Plume de Chanel – Light as a Feather
In 2010, the late artistic director Patrice Leguéreau brought back the feather as the main design in his first high jewelry line.
By 2024, the Plume de Chanel collection will have evolved to include even more colour, movement, and elegance. The pieces are light and flowy, inspired by feathers in the wind.
Transformable Feather Jewelry
One stunning piece is the Plume Singulière necklace, which can be worn in two ways—either as a Y-necklace or as a long sautoir. You can also remove the feather part and wear it as a brooch.
Another piece is the Plume head jewel, made with white and pink gold and sparkling diamonds. These designs give the look of lightness and grace.
Jewelry That Feels Like a Second Skin
The new designs are made to feel like sportswear—smooth, light, and comfortable. With sleek lines and patterns like chevrons, the pieces hug the body like they belong there. It’s luxury you can move in.
Chanel Plays with Bold New Designs
This collection also shows Chanel’s fun and bold side. For the first time, the Chanel name is included in the design of the jewelry, adding a strong statement. Some pieces even use a stylised number 5 as part of the clasp—a nod to Chanel’s famous perfume.
Others are inspired by fashion items like hoodie strings, giving the jewelry a cool and modern twist.
A Touch of Pink Elegance
The Plume de Chanel collection isn’t just about feathers—it’s also about soft, romantic pink tones. Chanel carefully picked pink gemstones to bring life and a sense of gentle beauty to each piece in the collection. The pink colors range from light pastels to bold, rich pinks, adding depth and emotion to the designs.
Soft Glow of Pink Gemstones
Chanel used pink sapphires in different shades—from almost transparent to bright fuchsia. There’s also pink tourmaline, known for its smooth, powdery pink look.
One of the highlights is a 1.26-carat purplish-pink diamond shaped like a pear, used in a beautifully crafted ring.
Chanel’s Featured Pink Feather Pieces
Plume Couture de Chanel Necklace
Made in platinum, white gold, and pink gold, this necklace features a 5.04-carat cushion-cut pink sapphire, sparkling diamonds, and more pink sapphires for extra shimmer.
Plume Mademoiselle de Chanel Ring
Crafted in white gold, it shines with a 1.26-carat pear-cut purplish-pink diamond (VVS2 clarity), surrounded by brilliant diamonds.
Plume Rose de Chanel Brooch
Designed in pink gold, this brooch features an 8.11-carat oval-cut pink tourmaline, decorated with diamonds and pink sapphires, perfect for a graceful look.
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